THE NORTH RIDING PROJECT

You boil a guillemot’s egg for four and a half minutes.  You crack a hard, brittle shell and taste a most delicious egg.  It does not taste strong like a duck egg, and it does not taste of fish.  The white is stiff and faintly blue in colour and the yolk is a rich red.  It is a most distinguished egg to eat in an hotel.  When the waiter bears it through the room, bright blue and wobbling in a tiny egg cup, the usual sulky calm of the British breakfast is shattered.

Morton/England